Here at Warpaint we have been scrutinising the trends coming off the first two fashion weeks of the AW14 season to bring you bang up to date with the trends you’ll be seeing later in the year. Perfected, natural-looking skin is still at the forefront of the latest looks, as it is this Spring, with subtle definition and contouring creating the contrast, or striking bold eyes and lips, keeping the look fresh and interesting.
New York, New You
One of the most talked, tweeted and blogged about looks was at Rodarte, where James Kaliardos for NARS bucked the trend for subtlety. With pale skin and delicately contoured cheeks, the eyes and lips simultaneously vie for attention and work seamlessly together. Deep chocolate and burnished tones create depth around the eye to offset the sparkly and unabashedly girly glittered lips. Kaliardos described the look as one of “delicate and youthful beauty… ephemeral and nostalgic, creating a beautiful glow.” Look out for the Dolomites Duo eyeshadow and the Deborah Audacious lipstick, both out this autumn, to recreate the look.
Marc Jacobs’ models created a stir with their blunt bobbed wigs and perfected pale skin as they sashayed down the runway. Another NARS creation, this time by the man himself, the look was designed to match the muted tones of the clothes. A sheer wash of soft grey across the eyelid – using NARS Andromeda Dual-Intensity eyeshadow (Summer 2014 collection) – was enhanced with brown eyeliner along the lashline and also along the socket. A pale, glossy lip and dramatic bleached brows completed the unusual look.
Set against the black and grey palette at Vera Wang, the models’ skin practically glowed. Pale and interesting certainly seemed to be the order of the day, with delicate silver eyeshadow and a strong brow the only accompaniment to luminescent skin.
At Anna Sui there was a gorgeous, iridescent peacock eye paired with an unapologetic matte red lip. Created by genius Pat McGrath, she described the blue-green duochrome eye as “strong and fun”. Pat built up the layers of colour using a damp brush with the shadow, and intensifying the colour from the inside out. Pair with black liner and lashings of black mascara to make the colours pop even more.
Zac Posen also embraced the matte red lip, with MUA Kabuki for MAC creating a bold, graphic eyeliner look, above the lashline, to pair with the bright lip. Kabuki chose Dangerous, an orangey-red shade from the Retro Matte lipstick collection to perk up the skin, and a gentle flush on the cheek to complete the look.
Revlon Global Artistic Ambassador, Gucci Westman, created an “effortless but still sultry” look for Oscar de la Renta. A copper-toned, smoky eye, edged with black eyeliner, was the main adornment of otherwise flawless, fresh skin with a naturally glossy lip. Westman used the Revlon Colourstay Shadowlinks in Cocoa, Chocolate, Greige and Charcoal to blend together this sophisticated look. The Shadowlinks are not yet available in the UK – fingers crossed they leap across the pond soon.
Val Garland took the no make-up look to the extreme with MAC at Marios Schwab. With a touch of MAC Paintpot in Groundwork on the eyes, a softly defined brow and cheek, the natural beauty of the models was left to shine through.
Topshop Unique saw velvety-smooth skin juxtaposed with an edgy, heavily-lined eye and bare lips. MUA Hannah Murray, using Topshop beauty products, played with the kohl liner in Coal and thick layers of mascara. This “delinquent schoolgirl” look has us remembering our early days of experimenting with eye make-up – but far more glamorously. Look out for the new foundation, primer and concealer, used to create the effortlessly perfect skin, arriving this autumn.
Funky House of Holland did not disappoint with a punky, colourful twist on a winged liner teamed with a raspberry lip – perfect for the Debauched Debutantes theme. Lucia Pica for MAC used a deep green shade to create interest around the eye, but dark enough so as not to detract from the lips. Pica chose the eyeliner Mystery, intensified on the inner and outer corners and smudged over with a brush for a lived-in feel, followed by Fluidline liner in Ivy Black and finished with a wash of the green shade in the upcoming Fall 2014 Palette.
MAC continued its fashion week streak when MUA Andrew Gilmore created an unusual bright copper eye for Holly Fulton. These “double-take copper sockets” were created using MAC Copper Sparkle pigment, applied along the lashline and socket line using a tiny, wet brush. Glowing, illuminated skin and a soft nude lip completed this brightening look.
At the Mark Fast show, models were again embracing the no make-up look. MUA Sarah Jane Froom, using bareMinerals products, recreated a “cold winter’s day beauty” look with naturally glowing, illuminated skin and wind-flushed cheeks. Try bareMinerals Prime Time Brightening Foundation Primer and Ready Blush in The Tease, paired with their Marvellous Moxy Lipstick in Be Free.
Lisa Eldridge injected a pop of colour to LFW in the form of bright blue graphic eyeliner at the Temperley show. Using Sunday Riley base products, Lisa constructed the eye look using Kryolan’s Aquacolor in BL.10 on the top lid, with a darker navy below. Glowing, gently contoured skin and a pale peachy lip stop the look from veering into ‘80s territory.
Matthew Williamson also trusted Lisa to design the look for his show, and again she chose to break away from the nudes trend to create a burnished brown-red lip, bright pink blush and defined eyes, using a mix of black liner and a warm shadow similar to the lipcolour defining the crease. The look was polished and sophisticated, and the colours did not detract from which the busy clothes they were paired.
Finally the old fashion favourite of the Burberry show gave us perhaps the most appropriately Fall look of the week, combining rich tones and the season’s minimalistic trend. Mary Rowe swept a soft mulberry shade, Nude Blush across the eye from the Burberry Beauty Complete Eyes Palette and dabbed Burberry’s Lip Cover in Tulip Pink (both available in August) onto lips with her fingers for a natural, but interesting, look.